Travel the Alaska Highway: Gateway to Northern Vacation Destinations

Fall is once more upon us. The sky has turned that glorious, deep cobalt-blue hue that only northern skies can achieve, and the leaves still clinging to their branches are afire with autumnal gold, russet, and fiery orange. This is Fall's last fling, her final, colorful fantasy before the winds strip the trees and usher in the winter snows.

Now, while the most annoying insect pests, the gnats, mosquitoes, and black flies, have vanished from the northern lakes and woods, and before the chill of winter strikes, load up the Winnebago, or the camper, and head up the Alaska Highway for some of Canada's most fabulous fall scenery. Though not the usual vacation selection, touring the north country will introduce you and your family to some of Canada's most remote, beautiful, and historic areas.

Many do not realize that the Alaska Highway actually starts in Canada - in Alberta - and winds its way through Northern Alberta, parts of Northern British Columbia, and across much of the Yukon before actually crossing over the border into Alaska. I have often thought the highway should be renamed the "To-Alaska Highway", but then, to paraphrase The Bard , "What's in a name? A rose [An Alaska Highway] by any other name would smell as sweet [AND still pass through some spectacular scenery before reaching the U.S. border]."

Starting from Grimshaw, AB, which is Mile Zero on the MacKenzie Highway, where the crops lie swathed in the fields, ready for the harvest, there are several routes to the north. Traveling through Hines Creek, we join the Alaska Highway in Fort St. John, at about Mile 60. This route bypasses historic Dawson Creek, Mile Zero on the Alaska Highway, but will take you through the magnificent Beatton Valley.

The Beatton was filled with early morning mist, just rising from the valley below when we passed through. The shroud of fog finally lifted to reveal the glorious fall colors that decked the poplars, maple trees, and wild rose bushes. high in the cliffs we could see the nesting caves of a local variety of swallows.

From Fort St. John, the highway leaves the prairies, and climbs into the mountains, twining its way through some of the most magnificent mountain scenery in the world, up through the foothills past Pink mountain and on into Fort Nelson.

Leaving Fort Nelson in the early morning, we didn't see the sun 'til we were well past Sikkanee Chief Mountain, a famous and distinctive landmark. The morning fog shrouded the pass in rolling billows, surrounding us until we climbed above it, higher into the mountains.

The overcast finally began to show some signs of lifting as we stopped for lunch at Toad River. This tiny hamlet's populations is swelled by a steady influx of fans of mountain camping throughout the summer, and again, in the fall, by hunters in search of Bighorn Sheep, moose and trophy bucks.

The Toad River Lodge offers the only gas station for some miles around, as well as a restaurant, snacks and sandwiches to go, and a souvenir shop. Some rooms are available in the lodge, along with camping hook-ups near the lake.

The intermittent overcast did nothing to dampen either our spirits, or the beauty of the campgrounds in the Liard (Lee-ard) River Provincial Park. The natural mineral hot-springs are open year-round, and offer day camping near the springs, along with well-serviced RV and camper parking in the park.

The Liard River Hot Springs are renown for their healing properties, and draw visitors from around the world, throughout the year, as the heat of the mineral springs keep the bathing pools open year-round.

On our trek down the board-walk from the parking lot to the bathing pools, we were thrilled to hear the unmistakable gabbling of Sand Hills Cranes. A small flock swirled high overhead, forming up to ride the high wind currents to their southern, winter ranges.

Our second-last stop before Whitehorse, YT, was at Watson Lake. The picturesque tourist stop-off sits on the edge of Wye Lake, and features a one-of-a-kind sign post forest. This forest contains actual sign posts brought to Watson Lake by visitors from villages, towns, and cities all around the world. These global offerings range from mileage signs, to license plates and home-made, personal markers.

The small town plays host to a steady flow of visitors to on their way to or from the north country, from hunters, to photo-hunters and camping families. Facilities include several restaurants and hotels, as well as full-sized grocery stores, and a variety of shops.

About an hour and a half from Whitehorse, Teslin, on Nisutlin Bay, offers beautiful tourist accommodations - camping and motel accommodations, complete with a restaurant and wild-life museum. On our return trip, we stopped there for breakfast, enjoying a walk beside Teslin Lake and toured the museum, which is jam-packed with amazing life-size dioramas of the indigenous wild-life.

The morning air was crisp and clean, with a light mist rising from the lake. A slight frost glistened on the wild rose bushes, melting as the sun kissed their leaves. There was nowhere to look that wouldn't have made a great picture for the family photo album.

© 2010, Text and photos by Elle Fredine, All rights reserved